Our last 24 hours in Azerbaijan were spent in the tiny village of İlisu in the Qakh Rayonu region. The village is located with Dagestan/ Russia to the north and Georgia to the west. İlisu is a small village with a population of less than 1,500 people nestled at the foot of the Caucasus mountains. If we had more time it would have been the perfect hiking destination to explore the surrounding river and waterfall. But, alas, we had a schedule to keep. Our friends would be waiting to pick us up at a land crossing in the Georgian town of Lagodekhi the next day. If you aren’t hiking then one day in İlisu is probably enough.

Sites of interest are the Sumuq Qala museum which is both a 17th century defense tower and a movie star! Featured prominently in the 1981 smash hit USSR film Qorxma mən səninləyəm  “Do not be afraid, I am with you”. Swoon! Be sure to click on the link, the YouTube video will not disappoint. Not to be overshadowed is the 18th century stone Ulu Mosque and an equally lovely 16th century bridge, also made of river stones.

It was at that very bridge were we encountered a charismatic man and his dour, sullen wife selling homemade sour plum sauces, both green and red, and one lonely bottle of fermented chili relish.

. These sauces are used to enhance various meat dishes and even fish and vegetables. The red pepper relish called ajika is popular in the region for adding heat to pasta. When I saw that neither of my traveling companions were interested in the ajika, I happily claimed it as my own. It had been a few months since our trip, and my stash was running low. So I decided I had better attempt to recreate it. I am pleased to say that while I knew my pepper blend would be a little different, the method and flavor seemed to be spot on. Ajika is a popular condiment in Azerbaijan and all of the neighboring countries as well. Each recipe I read was a little different as it would be from country to country, even household to household. Some use tomatoes, carrots, vinegar and various herbs or spices. I even read one that added apples. This method is inspired by the Azerbaijani man by the bridge in the tiny town of İlisu and for that I thank him.

Ingredients

1 Pound mild to spicy peppers- my blend was half mildly hot village peppers and half extremely hot cayenne peppers.

6-8 Cloves of garlic

¼ Cup pickling salt or sea salt

1 Quart of filtered water

Method

Create the simple brine by adding the salt and water and bringing it to a boil, once the salt is dissolved set aside.

In your vessel pack the peppers and layer in the garlic.

Add the brine then use a fermentation weight or some other item like a smaller glass jar to keep the peppers and garlic submerged.

If using a fermentation lid or an airlock system you are good to go. If not, be sure to “burp” the peppers daily by opening and resealing the lid to let the fermentation gas out.

Wait at least a month to develop the best flavor. After a month (or longer if you aren’t impatient like me) toss the whole mix in a blender and blend for about 30 seconds. You don’t want a totally smooth puree. Strain to separate the ajika from your bonus hot sauce! You can either keep the hot sauce or gift it to friends in little bottles. They will be impressed!