It is an ongoing disappointment in my life that Istanbul has a very limited and mediocre international culinary presence. But that is a rant for another day. As a person who loves Mexican food, tacos in particular, this leaves a taco shaped hole in my heart. In the past year or so a handful of restaurants purporting to serve tacos have popped up on the scene. I have eaten at all of them. Some of the restaurants I have even travelled a fair distance, only to be deeply let down. The best cure for my cravings, has been and continues to be, to make my own tacos at home. I bring masa harina (Mexican corn flour used to make tortillas) from the states. However, on occasion I like to make corn tortillas from scratch. This is a really gratifying process call nixtamalization. This is the process of preparing corn known as maize in an alkaline solution, typically water with lime, in order to soften and remove the corn hull. This process goes as far back as the Mayans in 1500 BC and has multiple benefits. Higher nutritional value, fungus removal, a deeper flavor and aroma. The kind of taste you have come to expect from corn tortillas or chips.  It also makes it easier to grind and form into a dough. If you have ever tried to make tortillas from standard corn flour you will know that it is impossible. The grains simply fall apart. That is because the corn hasn’t been through the nixtamalization process. It is essential for creating the gluten necessary to form a dough. This requires a bit of time and patience and, in my experience, a little trial and error. But the end result is well worth the effort.

Ingredients

2 Pounds Corn Kernels -white, yellow, blue and field corn are all acceptable. Popcorn will not work for this process, the kernels are too small.

1 Tablespoon Calcium Hydroxide -or other food grade slaked lime such as this.

Water -enough to cover the kernels.

Masa Harina- as needed

Method

Sort through the corn, taking care to remove any stones or refuse. In a large pot, cover the corn with about an inch of water add the Calcium Hydroxide and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the kernels are soft but not overly soft. They should be toothsome. Depending on the type of corn this can be anywhere from 30 minutes to 45 minutes or even beyond. Take care to add water when necessary.

Once desired tenderness is achieved remove from heat, cover and let stand overnight. Take your pot to the sink and strain most of the water. Then, with the water running into the pot, take the kernels and rub them vigorously between your hands. This process will remove the hulls of the corn. Drain and repeat until the corn has become a vibrant shade and the water is clear. Similar to washing rice for sushi. Drain well.  Note: If you are not able to use the nixtamalized corn right away it can be stored in fresh water in your refrigerator.

Transfer corn to your grinder of choice. I used a molino de mano which is a hand operated corn mill but really the grind from this isn’t refined enough. A second step with a stone grinder called a metate is necessary -sadly I don’t own one. A food processor will achieve much better results. Working in batches, process the corn adding a bit of water when necessary. Your desired result is a thick hummus like puree with no visible bits of corn.

At this point your dough may be ready to go, you want it to be a moist but not sticky consistency. But if the dough is too wet or if it isn’t coming together correctly you can always add a little store bought masa harina to get it to the dough like consistency you need. It is better to add this then to have overly wet or overly brittle tortillas.

I have found the easiest way to operate a tortilla press is cut a plastic sandwich bag in half so that the dough doesn’t stick to the metal part of the press. Take a golf ball sized amount of dough and roll it gently, place in the middle of the press and close. The goal is to achieve about 1 mm thickness. On a preheated grill cook on one side and then flip. About 30 seconds or so per side should do. You want them cooked but not burned. Alternate between the press and the grill. Keep the cooked tortillas wrapped in a clean kitchen cloth and serve immediately. Store any unused dough in a sealed container, refrigerate and use within two days.